Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
